Fishing in Washington State

August 29, 2017

Our first stop in Washington State was to pay a visit to Carol's cousin June (her Dad's first cousin) who lives in Okanogan, WA. We had visited June and her husband Red a couple of decades ago, with Carol's mom. June is in her 80s now, and Red in his early 90s. It was so good to see June again after all these years. She had a stroke a few years back, but gets around very well. Sadly, Red has Alzheimer's now and didn't really know us. June is his primary caregiver and certainly has quite a load on her shoulders, but bears it cheerfully. We spent the night and Carol and June talked continuously, catching up on all the doings of their various relatives. It was a pleasant visit, despite the sadness of seeing Red in his current situation.

 June and Carol

We left their place in the morning and headed west, toward the rivers on my list. After an incredible scenic drive through the majestic Cascade Mountains of northern Washington, during which we passed through the Northern Cascades National Park, we arrived at the small town of Darrington near the western headwaters of the Stillaguamish River, one of my top 100 trout streams (according to the Trout Unlimited organization and their book that I've been fishing my way through). The smoke from wildfires burning in Canada, Montana and Washington made the sky very hazy. Many of the streams we passed by in the Cascades looked like good trout waters, but were not on my target list. During the long drive along the Sauk River I heard that river calling to me, but I ignored her.

Northern Cascades National Park. The haze is due to wildfires.

The room at the Darrington Inn was OK, but at over $100 a night, it seemed a bit overpriced for what we got. I paid little attention to the fact that there were no fly shops in the area. But Carol had noticed there was a pawn shop nearby selling fishing licenses, flies, used and new rods (you could buy or rent) and just about everything else imaginable. So after a good night's rest (the bed was comfortable at least) we headed over to the pawn shop to look around.

The woman owner was pleasant and listened intently to my story of coming all the way from Virginia to fish the Stilly, my next-to-last Top 100 Trout stream in the lower 48 states. Then she dropped the bomb on me. "The North Fork of the Stilly is closed to fishing!" she said. "What?" I exclaimed, as if I didn't hear what she said. "The North Fork is closed to fishing." she repeated, "The Fisheries Department closed it early last year and again this year because the flows are so low. They want to give any fish in there the best chance to survive the summer drought and heat." Nothing could have prepared me for this. ALL of my trout books said the North Fork was the best Stilly waters and summer steelhead were in the stream and even the sea-run cuttthroat trout were coming in at this time. Noting my great disappointment and possibly knowing she was about to miss a sale, the woman replied, "But the South Fork is not closed yet and will stay open until September 4th." So I bought my Washington State fishing license and some flies she recommended and headed to Arlington, where the North Fork and the South Fork joined as they headed to the Pacific Ocean.

Carol had found a fly-tying and fishing expert in Arlington and we stopped for a very long chat and I purchased some more flies. An odd but helpful guy. We headed upriver to the first state-maintained campground and found a nice camping spot along the South Fork. We walked along the bank to check it out. The stream was very low and filled with big round boulders, ranging in size from basketballs to Volkswagens.

Boulders and Boulders Galore in the Stilly South Fork

I'm stalling now, in hopes you might have gotten bored reading this and will not notice the stupid stunt I pulled next. I decided to rig my fly-rod and put on a small purple prince nymph. I saw and ignored my wading stick and didn't even put on my waders and boots because I had no intention of wading in the water--I was just going to stand on the bank and throw a few casts, to see what was what.

On the first cast into a likely run, I had a strike. On the second cast I caught a juvenile rainbow about 6 inches long. It still had parr marks on its side (row of spots on juvenile rainbows) so I figured it was a young steelhead trying to fatten up so it could run to sea with the big boys in the spring. A few casts later, I caught a slightly larger rainbow which put up a bigger fight. In trying to unhook him, I slipped on a boulder and lost my balance. I fell over a large boulder, landing hard on my back. It was enough to knock the wind out of me and engage my paramedic skills of checking my body, neck and limbs before attempting to rise. Carol saw me fall and came over to help. But I felt well enough at that point to continue fishing for awhile longer.

Later that night the pains started setting in from where I fell on my elbows and my left hip in an attempt to break my fall. My back hurt pretty bad when standing up from a sitting position. I was moving VERY slowly. We decided to call off the fishing the next day, since I had checked off the stream by catching those trout, no matter that they were small ones. The next morning we drove to Yakima (Carol driving, me still moving slowly), where I planned to fish the last of the lower 48 top 100 trout streams, the Yakima River, the culmination of my 20-year quest. Four days of recuperation, holed up in a Super8 where I could soak my back in the tub, were required before I felt in shape to finally fish the Yakima River.

The highlight of this recuperation period was on Saturday, when Carol's good buddy (another Carol) from her early college days at Mary Washington in Fredericksburg, VA arranged to meet us for lunch at a nearby restaurant. Carol and her boyfriend Dick, both from Asheville, NC, were also driving across the country in Dick's RV and we'd been following them to many of the same locations, about a week behind, but this was the first time we'd been in the same vicinity at the same time. I was feeling somewhat better at this point and we all enjoyed the lunch together and talking about our travel experiences. (And the delicious fresh marionberry pie a la mode!)

Selfie of the happy group after lunch--Jack, Carol L, Dick, Carol W.

September 4, 2017

During my recuperation period, Carol sought out a good fly shop in the nearby Yakima Canyon and we drove there to view the water and talk to someone in the fly shop. The presence of several fly shops in this area told me this was a good river to fish. We figured that a float trip with a guide was my best chance to actually catch a trout and check off this last river. Carol booked us a half-day float trip and we arrived at the fly shop around 7:30 am on Monday, Labor Day, to meet Shan, our friendly and knowledgeable guide, with his Clakka drift boat. After signing the required releases, we headed upstream and watched as Shan launched his boat and held it in place as Carol and I took our places (me in the bow, Carol in the stern, and Shan in the middle rowing position). I was now able to lock my legs in the bow notch and, armed with Shan's five-weight rod, we headed downstream. The morning was nice and cool and the smoke that had been hanging in the air from multiple wildfires had mostly cleared out. And my back felt a lot better.

Jack beside drift boat at the put-in. Jack stands in the front (left), Carol sits in the back (right), and Shan sits in the middle.

The Yakima River in the Canyon is about 200 feet wide. The water was quite fast and Shan told us the water was still being used for irrigation downstream but the level would soon fall, causing the trout to move around. He felt sure we would have a good day, and that we did. It was not long until I caught my first rainbow--a 9-inch well-muscled trout who put up a surprisingly hard fight. Check off the Yakima River--hooray!

Shan said the fish would get bigger as we moved downstream, and he was right. Once he tied on a golden stonefly nymph, the trout got bigger and bigger. I landed several large trout in the 18- to 20-inch range but I also lost as many as I hooked. These trout were very hard fighters and had a number of tricks up their sleeves. One particularly fast large trout jumped out of the water three times and then ran right toward and under the boat. In the process he wound my leader around the oar-lock and broke my leader, running off with my stone-fly imitation in his mouth. Carol took some great photos. Along the way she and Shan saw lots of bighorn sheep, running in small herds on the distant hills. (I was too focused on the fishing to see them.) They also saw several deer, which apparently here are a mixed breed of whitetail and blacktail deer. They have much bigger ears than our whitetails. Lots of birds were on the river too. Toward the end of the trip an osprey flew overhead with a trout in his talons. I swear they always do that just to let me know they too can catch trout and without a fly-rod and without a guide.

Hard-fighting Yakima rainbow trout.

Note the bend in Jack's fly rod. A big one!

Bighorn sheep - a view of a running herd from our drift boat.

This was a perfect end to a perfect day on my last river in the lower 48! We saw very few other boats or fishermen--it was like we had this beautiful, big western river to ourselves. Carol and I went to lunch afterward to celebrate and reminisce about the years of fishing beautiful streams across the United States. Will I ever fish the last three in Alaska, to make it a perfect 100? Maybe, but probably not. For some reason Trout Unlimited selected 3 extremely remote streams in Alaska that you can reach only by seaplane and where you must spend a week (each river) at a VERY expensive lodge. This is not the way I like to fish for trout. My ideal stream is wading in clear running water in a mountain stream with no other fishermen in sight. Far far away from the madding crowd...

We camped at a nearby RV park Monday night. It is now Tuesday and we are driving to try to get away from the terrible smoke in Washington, Montana and parts of Oregon, from the multiple wildfires. It's really bad today. Heading home. We saw an interesting art display from the interstate--Wild Horse Monument, a large multi-sculpture of a herd of wild horses running across a distant ridge.

Smoke everywhere today. Hazardous air quality. Can't even see the mountains and the sun is a dim orange disk.

Wild horses: as we saw the Monument from the road.

Wild Horse Monument: A close-up from the web.

Awesome Eclipse and Family Vacation

In the last blog, we were headed to the Denver area to visit our good buddy Kelly and her husband Todd, who live in Lakewood, Colorado. We arrived at their home on Saturday morning (Aug 12) and had a joyful reunion--we had a LOT to catch up on! Kelly took us out for a brief shopping expedition and we stopped at a municipal park for a walk around a small lake--from the name of her town, it makes sense that they have a lot of lakes. She wanted to show us a bronze sculpture in the park that she had read about--it is Michael Jackson as a kid with a bunch of other kids, some of which are his celebrity buddies, like Macauley Culkin, and family, like his sister Janet, and other friends of his. He apparently liked the work of a local artist that he saw at an arts festival and commissioned the statue from her, sending her photographs to work from. The original belonged to him and was in his sculpture garden at Neverland but the city purchased this copy in 1994. Nothing on the sculpture identifies it as being of Michael Jackson and many people in Lakewood had/have no idea it has any relation to Michael (Kelly didn't know until she read the newspaper article in the local paper).

Jack and Kelly with statue of Michael Jackson and friends. Michael is the child between them, with baseball glove on his left hand, a nice touch.

Close-up of sculpture, called "Snapshot" by Lakewood artist Janet DeDecker.

One exciting thing about this visit was Carol getting to dress up in Kelly's "motorcycle mama" outfit and ride behind Todd on his Harley to a local restaurant for dinner. Awesome!

Motorcycle Mama: Carol, Todd, and his Harley.

We spent the night in their comfy guest room and got on the road in the morning. We were seeing a lot of publicity about eclipse traffic and crowds and were a little worried about camping along the way to Idaho, as we got closer to the path of totality. In fact a couple of campgrounds that we called were full. However, we found a beautiful first come-first serve BLM campground on the Green River (near Pinedale, Wyoming) that still had room when we got there (it was only $5 a night with our Senior National Park pass). It did fill up after we claimed our space. Nice place, with a very friendly and helpful campground host.

As we drove through Wyoming mountains next to the Hoback River, we spotted some rafts in the river; the rafters were doing something with weird equipment on poles. We pulled over and watched them float down, and realized that the weird equipment consisted of shocking devices. They were shocking the fish in the water to stun them, so they could count them. As they came down the river, you could see big trout turned belly up and floating down. They pulled over to the side, and I (Carol) hollered down to them if the shocking killed the fish or just stunned them. A woman in the raft said they were just stunned and would be OK shortly. They were with one of the government wildlife agencies.

The fish stunning/shocking contraption hanging off the raft to the left. Note big fish floating upside down toward center of photo.

We arrived on Tuesday in Idaho Falls, driving through the busy, trendy town of Jackson, WY and over a stunning mountain pass, and found a spot at a campground on the Snake River. We did some sightseeing there. It's primarily a Mormon town (about 50,000 people), and therefore most everyone is very friendly and helpful. They obviously take a lot of pride in the appearance of the town. The heart is the falls. A long, low dam has been built behind the real falls, but the appearance of the natural falls is well preserved. A paved greenbelt area about 5 miles long surrounds the falls area crossing the river and going along both sides, with lovely gardens and quirky sculptures, and a pretty Japanese garden. Beautiful spot. We had sushi at a nearby restaurant/brewery, and it was delicious, somewhat surprisingly.

Section of the dam and natural falls, with Mormon temple in background.

We had a quiet night at the campground and ate their pancakes for breakfast (which were served on the patio practically at our doorstep), and then we drove out to our farmhouse rental for the next week, where we plan to view the total eclipse. It's in Sugar City, an agricultural suburb of Rexburg, which is a suburb of Idaho Falls. (Rexburg, home of BYU-Idaho, is supposed to be one of the best places in the country to view the eclipse, based on typical weather conditions and length of totality. NASA has a big presence here for the eclipse.)

Our Sugar City 1930s era farmhouse, recently renovated by the original builder's daughter and her husband. Our apartment is upstairs. The owners, Scott and Neva, live in the front part of the house.

My brother and all his kids and various spouses and significant others will be flying in during the week, intermittently, with everyone (10 people) here on Monday for the Big Eclipse. We have rented The Loft of the farmhouse (sleeps 7) and also a camper that supposedly sleeps 6, which is being delivered on Wednesday, 2 days earlier than we ordered it, but the rental company is very busy and wants to get it delivered before Friday, their busiest day.

When we arrived at the little farm, we talked to Scott, the owner who Carol has been dealing with for the past year and a half since she booked the place, and he was OK with them bringing the camper early. We enjoyed watching the three turkeys, numerous hens, little family of ducks, and various rabbits and kitties running around the yard.

Carol's brother Jim, his wife Linda, daughter Lauren, and daughter Christin and her BF Tyler are to arrive Thursday around noon. Carol has also rented a 15-passenger van in Rexburg, to haul everyone around in. Big plans!

We got the camper set up with clean sheets/towels and then Carol went to the nearby Walmart to buy a load of groceries. Thursday morning, Jack and Carol went to pick up the rental van in Rexburg and left the RoadTrek there while we went to meet the crowd coming into the Idaho Falls airport. Their plane arrived on time and they were hungry, so we took them back to the same Idaho Falls restaurant where we had sushi the day before (it had hamburgers and other stuff too--Jack complained about the "$12 hamburgers" everywhere, as we're used to $3 burgers in New Castle, not city prices!). After lunch we toured around a little bit of Idaho Falls and bought some souvenirs at the Visitor Center. Lots of eclipse posters, glasses and mementos!

Part of our gang arrives: Linda, Lauren, and Jim! (Christin and Tyler were behind them.)

Since the day was still young, we decided to see one of the Rexburg tourist attractions, Yellowstone Bear World, a drive-through wildlife park with lots of bears (mostly black bears but a few grizzlies), bison, elk and a few moose. It had kind of a fifties feel but it was pretty cool seeing the bears close up. One was lying right in the road all stretched out and snoring. Driving by one foot away from it didn't seem to disturb it in the least. Others were wrestling, cooling off in ponds, or just sitting and watching us go by. (These are all either "rescue bears" from zoos and carnivals, or else born and raised there.) They also had a petting zoo and a collection of very active bear cubs.

Yellowstone Bear World resident takes a dip.

After that, we drove back to the van rental place to pick up the Roadtrek. That's when the real adventure of the day took place. Jack was going to drive the Roadtrek and follow us back to the farm. We had our only GPS system in the 15-passenger van, but as it was only about 5 miles or so to the farm, we figured it would be OK for Jack to just follow us there. However, we lost Jack immediately. There was a roundabout next to the van rental company and apparently (because there were LOTS of white vans around) Jack followed the wrong one out of the roundabout. When we realized he wasn't behind us, we stopped and waited, but no Roadtrek was in sight! I tried to call him, but just got his message. We sat there a while trying to figure out what to do, then drove back through the roundabout looking for him, but no Jack. Carol was starting to panic. We decided to drive back to the farm, just in case he somehow magically got ahead of us, but when we got there, there was no Jack and no RoadTrek. And Carol discovered that he had left his cellphone behind in the camper!! Arghh!!! A search party was assembled to try to find him, but just as we got started back on the road, a call came through. It was Jack, at a service station somewhere in Sugar City, using their phone. We found our way to the Exxon station and were finally reunited. What a relief!! That was the most helpless feeling!

When everyone finally got settled into the Loft of the farmhouse, they enjoyed chasing and photographing the turkeys and chickens and ducks running around. Christin in particular had a thing for chasing the turkeys, as she wanted to hold one. (Christin has chickens back in Greensboro.)

Christin trying to catch a turkey. They would approach you looking for a handout, but didn't like to be touched.

We planned to go to Yellowstone on Friday; the west entrance is about an hour and twenty minutes from Sugar City. Jack decided to stay behind and work on the next novel of the trilogy he's writing. (He's been to Yellowstone many times, already fished all the rivers, and doesn't like crowds.) We got an early start and just cruised right on in the gate--no backups. My brother purchased his Senior National Park Pass--lifetime for $10, the last of the great deals. (The price is going up to $80 on August 28. Oops, that's tomorrow. Guess it's too late for those of you 62 and over who haven't bought yours yet...) Yellowstone National Park is HUGE--the size of Rhode Island and Delaware put together--so we could only see a tiny part of it in one day, but we crammed a lot in. First we made our way to Old Faithful and saw it erupt almost immediately, and then hiked the nearby geyser basin, seeing lots of other geysers, fumaroles, steam vents, and hot springs bubbling away. Such a crazy piece of the planet! We had a picnic lunch next to the Firehole River, where yet another geyser was erupting when we pulled in. Then we hiked out to see the Grand Prismatic, a huge hot spring pool that displays layers of vivid colors, like turquoise, yellow, green, deep blue. Looked like it's from another planet! We didn't see much wildlife that day, just a few bison from a distance, but it was a good day nevertheless. Jim and I were the only ones that had seen Yellowstone before, so it was a good introduction for the others.

Carol and Old Faithful.

We had to pick up Eric from the airport, so we headed back to Idaho Falls--he actually took a bus from Salt Lake City that was dropping him off at the airport, because it saved a lot of money and he wanted to see more of the countryside. He arrived safely and we headed to a restaurant for supper. Lauren found The Bee's Knees online. It didn't look like much when we got there, but it turned out to be a great find. The food was terrific and innovative. (The gang returned there later for another fabulous meal.)

Since Eric was only going to be with us for essentially a long weekend, the gang decided to drive to Jackson Hole, Wyoming and see the Tetons on Saturday. (Sugar City is about the same distance from Yellowstone and the Grand Teton National Parks.) Carol and Jack both stayed home, to catch up on some paperwork and generally rest up. The Jackson travelers had a great day, going up on the tram/ski lift for stunning mountain views and doing some marathon souvenir shopping.

Sunday was another full day of varied activities. Carol, along with Christin and Tyler, went on a daylong horseback ride into the Tetons. The rest of the gang, minus Jack, went back to Yellowstone, where they had another good day and saw some different sights--although it was more crowded than on Friday. Our horseback ride was phenomenal! Great horses, all Morgans or Morgan crosses. Our guide was Dave, a quintessential mountain man with lots of stories from his many years guiding hunting parties, packing mules into back country, etc. It was incredibly beautiful country, as you can see in the photo. Our goal was Green Lake, a natural high-altitude lake filled with trout. The wildflowers were profuse and pockets of snow were still around as we moved higher. It was a steep ride and my joints were screaming by the last hour, but it was fabulous. The last members of our crew, nephew Craig and his wife Alex, arrived safely on Sunday evening, just in time for the eclipse on Monday.

On the ride to Green Lake, Wyoming.

Ah, finally, the eclipse! The centerpiece of this family trip out West. Well, words can't do it justice! Nevertheless, following are two eyewitness reports, one from Carol and one from Jack.

Carol's Eclipse Report
We had a downright PERFECT view of the total eclipse here on our little farm in Idaho. Huge, perfectly clear blue sky--we watched the whole thing from start to finish (using our eclipse glasses, of course, until the 2 minutes or so of totality). I've seen several partial eclipses through the years and even one total eclipse in which totality was completely clouded out (long, sad story), and I thought I pretty much knew what to expect today with the total eclipse, but it came as a big surprise--it's like a switch flips and suddenly a black hole appears in the sky surrounded by INCREDIBLY BEAUTIFUL wispy strands of white sparkly light streaming around it, with the dark sky behind it. All 10 of us (see photo) were together with our glasses and our eclipse tee shirts, and most of us started screaming when we removed our eclipse glasses and saw the total eclipse--it seems like the only sane reaction to what you're seeing. Jack and my brother Jim just sat there stoically watching the whole thing, but their jaws were dropping I noticed. (Note in the photo that Jack is the only nonconformist not wearing the obligatory family eclipse tee shirt. We teased him about it, but the truth is that I, Carol, stole his shirt because mine was missing at the time. It's complicated.)

It's starting!!

Jim and Jack in their eclipse poses. (Jack finally got his shirt back when Carol's turned up!)

At any rate, back to the total eclipse: you literally can't believe your eyes. We only had smartphone cameras and they weren't able to take many meaningful photos, but I've included the online photo I found that matches the closest to what we saw here. But it doesn't in ANY way do it justice. None of the photos do. You have to see it hanging in the sky to get the full impact.

This is NOT what a total solar eclipse really looks like, but is the closest we found to what we saw in the sky.

Other highlights included how crazy the shadows got as darkness advanced--they got much sharper, so you could see every individual hair sticking out from your head in your shadow, whereas usually it's blurry. (Should have taken a picture of that but forgot to.) As the partial eclipse progressed, images of the crescent-shaped sun appeared on the ground and other objects, including the rug in the house we're staying in (see photo). About 15 minutes or so before totality, the light got so weird--both of my nieces here said they felt like they were going to pass out, like they weren't getting enough oxygen to their brain and their vision was darkening. I kept reaching up to take off my sunglasses, but realized I wasn't wearing them--it was the light itself that was so dark and strange. And it got VERY cold. Went from a warm sunny morning to a very chilly dusk--we had to put our jackets and hoodies on. The farm where we're staying has a bunch of chickens, turkeys and ducks running around the yard, and they all went to roost as it got darker. As the crescent of the sun turned skinnier and skinnier, the sky got really dark and two planets (Venus and Mars, I think) appeared. We were up high on an open porch and could then see a 360-degree sunset color all around the entire horizon, backlighting the Grand Teton mountain in the distance! 

The shape of the partially eclipsed sun shining through the window blinds onto the rug.

At the moment of totality, we pulled off our eclipse glasses and went into--something like communal shock, is the best way I can describe it. Suddenly we're transported to another planet where the sky and the colors and where the sun used to be are completely different. As I said, the photos of a total eclipse don't do it justice in any way whatsoever. You can't take your eyes off the sun's huge looping, shimmering corona and the "black hole" but we're all jumping up and down and hollering, teary, shouting "I can't BELIEVE this!" "This is incredible!" "It's so BEAUTIFUL!", etc. (My sister-in-law had a video running through the whole experience so we can relive the emotion of it.) I think the emotional part of it is really weird, because it's been so hyped lately and I've spent the last year and a half waiting for this and reading about it and seeing photos of other total eclipses--but it's a shock to your system no matter how much you know about it or how many images of the eclipsed sun you've looked at. Seeing it hanging in the big dark sky is like nothing else you've ever seen. It hits you in the heart, for some reason.

Our niece Lauren's photo of totality. The sky colors were much darker and stranger, and the black orb and huge corona looked so much larger to the eye and the 360-degree sunset was much more vivid. Again, photos don't come close!

It was all too short. And then the "diamond ring" happened--a burst of brilliant light from one little point along the edge of the black moon that had everyone screaming again, and it was time to put the eclipse glasses back on. And everything happened in reverse. Everyone agreed that it was the most incredible, otherworldly thing we've ever seen. I'm hooked. I think I'm going to turn into one of those total eclipse chasing people.

All my family is having a blast--the first time in the West for most of them. We've seen Yellowstone, the Tetons, Jackson Hole, and lots of other great stuff. Tomorrow we're rafting down the Snake River.

But nothing is going to eclipse the eclipse.

Jack's Eclipse Report
I saw for the first time the total eclipse of the Sun in a field sitting in a lawn chair near Rexburg, Idaho. It was an awesome experience and I realize pictures can never come even close to showing what I saw. Our eyes are incredible devices which allow us to see in color and in 3-D all around us at the same time. Every camera we had AND all the photos on TV and elsewhere did not even come close to showing what I saw. Here are a few of the differences between the black and white and/or two-dimensional pictures of the total eclipse and what I saw and experienced:

(1) because the Rexburg area is desert-like with no humidity, I noticed the temperature decreasing as the sun approached total eclipse. It was as if the nighttime desert temperature suddenly got turned on.

(2) I tracked the progress of the moon with dark glasses, watching the sliver of the sun get smaller and smaller. Suddenly everything went black in my dark glasses. I quickly took them off and saw in brilliant technicolor a very large corona around a "black hole" hanging in a dark indigo blue sky. The corona was a very bright green-yellow to me and about the width of the black hole. Inside the corona I saw bright red beads flashing on and off leaving bright red streaks (caused by the sun flares I think). I saw stars appearing in the indigo sky and a reddish horizon all around me.

The 360-degree sunset colors show up a little better in this photo. Still partial eclipse here. Note sharp shadows.

(3) the great roar from the people around me rises and ebbs.

(4) pigeons fly to the barn, looking for their nighttime roost. Farm animals get weird and are nervous.

(5) at the end, a very bright diamond flash appears at the edge of the "black hole." People around me scream with joy.

(6) then I put my dark glasses back on and see the sliver of the sun getting bigger and bigger, and I wish my brain had a replay button so I could watch the total eclipse all over again.

Carol again. It was totally incredible. All of us expressed the wish to see it again, as the wonderful vivid memory of it fades from our brains. I have a feeling we'll be going to see some other total eclipses. Only 7 years till we get another one in the US!

After the excitement died down and we talked about what we'd experienced, we decided to head out to a local hot spring. I was especially eager to soak the aches away from our horseback ride. We went to Green Canyon Hot Spring, a family-owned facility that's been in business in one form or another since 1902. The place was rustic and the people were friendly. Only $8 to soak as long as you like. The main, big pool was 92 degrees, a smaller hot pool was about 106, and they also had a tiny cold plunge pool at 57 degrees, that you couldn't really handle for more than a minute or so. I think the soak worked, since I never really got too sore from the ride. Idaho is filled with all kinds of different hot springs, one of the things that Jack and I love about it.

Our gang tries out the hot pool, at 106 degrees. (Took a while to get used to it.)

Never a dull moment for this crowd. My brother had scheduled a raft trip down the Snake River for Tuesday (for everyone minus Jack, who's still working on his book and, yes, had already rafted down the Snake River). First we had to drop Eric off to meet his bus at the airport--so long, Eric! So it was back over the high mountain pass to Jackson, Wyoming, and a bus ride to the put-in site. Some of us spotted a bald eagle and its nest from the bus. The water was cold and clear, about 55 degrees. We were all in the same raft. It's a beautiful, powerful river and it was lots of fun getting thrown around and soaked by the standing waves, like a carnival roller coaster where someone is constantly dousing you with buckets of cold water! Fortunately it was warm and sunny and dry, so after each soaking we dried off almost immediately. Lots of laughs.

After the rafting trip, we had some lunch and headed to the nearby Grand Teton National Park, for sunset. We toured one of the visitor centers and drove around looking for the best views to photograph. Got a few good pics. These are some jagged, craggy, tall mountain peaks! We saw a glacier too.

Carol, Linda and Jim, sunset in the Tetons. That's a glacier above Jim/Linda's heads.

Wednesday was a more low-key day--we had to take Lauren to the airport in the morning, and then we drove to Blackfoot to visit the Idaho Potato Museum. It was actually a very cute and informative museum with a great photo-op of a giant baked potato, and "free taters for out-of-staters"! Learned way more about potatoes than I ever wanted to know. I (Carol) have been desperately wanting the gang to see a pronghorn antelope, because they're a unique animal and usually Jack and I see lots of them in this neck of the woods, but no antelopes have shown up. We went to a gun shop (Craig and Tyler's instigation) across the street from the potato museum and I asked the proprietor where to see antelope. He instructed us to drive 15 miles or so down the road toward the more desert-y area and guaranteed that we'd see some antelopes. But no dice. Long, long drive through volcanic sagebrush, with cinder cones in the distance--perfect antelope territory, but no antelope. I gave up on the antelope mission after that. (We actually did see a distant herd on the last day.)

Craig, Alex, Carol, Christin, Linda, Tyler at the Idaho Potato Museum.

The "kids" in our group decided to drive back to Jackson in the evening to see a rodeo. As we heard later, they all really enjoyed the experience. They won the prize for being the loudest fans in the crowd--a Yeti water bottle! Craig and Tyler both rode a mechanical bucking bison (Craig ended up with a black eye.) Yeah, lots of fun!

Our last day was a final return to Yellowstone, so Craig and Alex could see it. Again, we did some of the same things and some different things. We spent some time hiking the rim of the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone, viewing the Upper and Lower Yellowstone Falls, which are spectacular. Some of our group hiked down the steep trail to the very brim of the Lower Falls, right where the water drops off and falls 308 ft to the Canyon (twice as high as Niagara Falls). And of course we had to see Old Faithful spout off again!

The amazing Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone!

We returned to our little Idaho home about 6:30 pm and heated up the grill for last-night hamburgers and brats, and reminisced about the great week we'd had. Then Linda remembered (or was reminded) about the Potato Museum fake tattoos she had, so she got them out and everyone was tattooed with a little Idaho Potato cartoon. Jack's tattoo was placed on top of his bald head! A little hilarity to close our time together.

Showing potato tats!

Everyone except us left on Friday to return home. (Jack and I stayed another night to get everything squared away.) We all agreed that it had been a fabulous trip, exceeding all expectations. After dropping them off at the airport, we turned in the 15-passenger van (no mishaps this time!), straightened up the camper and got it ready to be picked up on Saturday morning, and did some last-minute washing and cleaning out of the refrigerator in the farmhouse. Hate to leave--we made a lot of memories in this week.

Now we're on our way to Washington State, to see some more family members and to catch some trout.

On Our Way to the Big Eclipse

Took us quite a while to get this blog started for the Epic Journey 2017, but here's the first entry, finally! Waiting this long makes for a long first blog. So don't feel like you have to read every word. We do this mostly for ourselves, so we can remember what happened to us, what we saw, and what we may have committed ourselves to! Here goes: We left home on Friday, July 28, and drove up to Pennsylvania, for the annual Lewis family reunion. We took two cartons of Jack's Civil War novel Storm Coming with us, as we had some deliveries to make along the way.

It rained on us most of the drive, but it wasn't too bad, mostly intermittent. The first book delivery was at the Smithfield Pharmacy: the pharmacist/owner is a history buff and stocks a lot of local history books (much of Jack's book is set in Smithfield) and he ordered 12 copies, so we dropped those off and chatted with him a while. Then we headed to Fairchance, PA, to drop off some copies to Nellie Budinsky, a Swaney cousin there. She is doing a good job of talking the book up to the Swaney family members around the area (the central character in the novel, AJ Swaney, is her ancestor as well as Jack's). Then we continued on our way north to the campground where the reunion was.

Had to set up camp in POURING rain by this time and the campground was muddy and puddly. Fortunately setting up camp for us means just pulling into the slot, so it wasn't bad. Jack's nephew Tom and his wife Pam already had their camper set up in the site next to us, so after a while we braved the rain and moved into their camper to chat, before calling it an early night.

It cleared off fairly early Saturday morning and the sun came out to dry things off--Yay! Had a good turnout for the reunion and it was a fun time. Pam and Tom were in charge this year and Pam had planned lots of "Family Olympics" games, like water balloon toss, relay races, hula hoop contest, etc. and it was entertaining for both participants and observers. The food was great (esp. Susan Hugh's pies!) and Jack's 97-year-old sister Hazel was there, so he got to spend a lot of quality time sitting and talking with her. It was a long day for her, but she was in great spirits and seemed to enjoy everything. We ended up volunteering to host the reunion at our place next year.

Spoons and Rocks - Let the games begin.

The Gold Medal Winners of the Lewis Family Games

We camped two nights, so Sunday morning we did more visiting and then set off for Tom and Pam's house near Pittsburgh--Jack had a radio interview scheduled for Monday morning with a talk show host at a large West Virginia station, and the host asked if we could get to a landline phone, for better sound. So we planned to spend the night with Tom/Pam and use their phone in the morning. Soon after we arrived at their house, Tom pulled out his beautiful little Thunderbird convertible and said we would go to see Jack's brother Tom and sister-in-law Joanne's gravesite, with their stones in place, which we hadn't seen yet. Tom and Jack rode in the convertible and Pam and Carol took their other car. (Carol got to ride in the convertible on the way home.) The cemetery is in a very peaceful, rural setting and the stones are personalized and beautiful.

Tom and Joanne - We miss you.

We had a delicious supper prepared by Pam and a great visit, playing music and singing for a good part of the evening. (Tom is a very good bluegrass/gospel/folk musician--plays many instruments but guitar is his primo one and he also had a banjo for Carol to play.) He and Pam sing great harmony together. Most enjoyable evening!

The 10-minute telephone interview the next morning went well--the talk show host is a friendly, folksy kind of guy, so it was nonintimidating and hopefully got the word out to a few more people in West Virginia who might be interested in reading the book. After the interview we packed up and headed on our way to West Virginia (Pam and Tom had both left earlier for work so we said our goodbyes the night before.)

We had decided to take advantage of our trip leg through West Virginia to do some book promotion and see if we could line up some lectures and newspaper articles, since we think West Virginia history buffs represent a good portion of the potential market for the novel (for those who haven't read it, it basically tells the story of how the state of West Virginia was born). So we planned to revisit the towns that figure heavily in the plot line. The first was Philippi, where the first real land battle of the Civil War took place. We stayed in a motel near there that we'd stayed in a couple of times before and liked--the Mountaineer Inn. It's quiet, reasonable, clean and has a great diner next door. We hadn't made a reservation and at first were told they were booked up due to a large church group visiting the area. But then when the reservationist saw that we were repeat customers, she did some figuring and offered us their honeymoon suite at a great rate! We stayed there for two nights--big jacuzzi in the room--nice!

After we checked in, we drove to the historic town of Beverly, where Gen. McClellan had his headquarters for a while in 1861. We visited the museum and discovered that the Rich Mountain Battlefield Association was having their board meeting that night, so we asked permission to attend and address the board members. (While waiting for the meeting, we drove up Rich Mountain to see the battlefield for the second time, this time from the opposite side. It's a neat, haunting, pristine battlefield--again, it figures heavily in the plot of Jack's book.) We attended the meeting and explained that the novel is all about the history of this area, and we handed out a few copies to the members and asked for their feedback after they have a chance to read it. It was a friendly group, and we got to meet one of the other authors we admire, Hunter Lesser, who wrote the best nonfiction history of the Civil War in West Virginia, Rebels at the Gate. We have plans to have lunch with him on the following day.

On Tuesday we did some work in the room and then drove to Elkins, where we were to meet Hunter for lunch. He is a smart and interesting guy, an archaeologist and a noted West Virginia historian of the Civil War era. He has had a copy of Storm Coming for several weeks and says that he likes it, and is willing to give us a good review quote when he finishes it, so that is great news. He also made some suggestions of contacts to talk to about book promotion. He is a flyfisherman as well, so he and Jack are kindred spirits!

After lunch, we dropped into the county library and talked to a couple of librarians who were very helpful. They would like Jack to come back for a presentation.

On Thursday morning we drove to Wheeling, WV and visited their central county library downtown. We donated a copy of the book to the library, and then one of the librarians promptly purchased a couple more copies. We spoke to a second librarian in charge of their educational programs, on Hunter's suggestion, about their Lunch with Books program, where they have authors in to give a talk during lunch on a Tuesday once a month. She asked if Jack would give a program in June next year, on West Virginia Day, so we booked it.
Lunch With Book - Ohio County Public Library - Wheeling, WV

After that, Carol visited Independence Hall in downtown Wheeling and spoke with the director of the museum, and she also indicated that she would like to have Jack there for a lecture sometime after the first of the year. So we definitely have another West Virginia book tour in our future.

In the afternoon we drove across the Ohio River to Steubenville, Ohio, to meet up with Gloria, the mother of one of our friends back in Oriskany, who had invited us earlier if we were in the area to visit a museum she's on the board of, Fort Steuben. She had done some "advance publicity" work for us (Gloria is a powerhouse!) and the museum store purchased 8 books. We toured the Fort and met her friend Jerry, who does a LOT of work with the Fort and is also on the board of directors of Fort Steuben and is running for mayor of Steubenville. We had a fabulous Italian supper with Gloria, and then attended an evening concert at the Fort of two "oldies" bands. It was a great day, of meeting and talking to some wonderful new friends. Their enthusiasm for Storm Coming was encouraging.

Gloria and Carol - Fort Steuben

Jack, Gloria and Jerry - Fort Steuben Gift Shop

We had a leisurely day of driving to the Louisville area on Friday, heading to another family party on Saturday, actually in Madison, Indiana, at the home of great-niece Miller Lynn Israel and her husband Michael. The occasion is Miller's 40th birthday and their 20th wedding anniversary. Their parties are known for fabulous fireworks displays, which we'd heard about for years but had never managed to see. They have a beautiful house on a hill overlooking the Ohio River. Michael and their daughter Rebekah (premed student) had spent days setting up the fireworks display, which was a BIG pile of explosives arranged on several platforms way down over the hill from the house and swimming pool.

Michael and Miller Lynn dance by their pool overlooking the Ohio River.

It was great getting to see Miller Lynn, Rebekah, and Michael again, and their parents Franklin and Joanne, who are particular favorites of ours, were also there for the party, so we enjoyed spending time with them. Great party, and the fireworks were jawdropping. It was like 35 minutes of nothing but "grand finale" fireworks! The cool thing is that we sat at the edge of the ravine and the fireworks were below us, so they exploded almost at eye level instead of way above. You almost felt like you were inside the explosions. Terrific! Another highlight was a bunch of us lining up on the edge of the ravine holding Roman candles and having Michael go down the line lighting them up--that was a pretty light show. And then Michael had a "surprise"--he and one of his buddies had spent time preparing "sleeves" of Roman candles--eight or ten per arm--and they came out, looking like those Transformer robots, shooting giant fireworks off their arms! Made me wonder whether Michael (a critical care physician) was trying to drum up more business for himself! Quite the spectacle.

Michael starts the fireworks with an impressive display of his own.

Sunday morning we went to church with the family at the historic Methodist church in Madison. We attended the contemporary service and both Rebekah and Michael took part in the service. Afterwards we went to lunch at the Key West Shrimp House and yakked for a couple more hours. Such a nice visit!

Historic Methodist Church In Madison IN. On far right Miller Lynn (Michele) and daughter Rebekah

The next few days were spent making our way West, driving across America's heartland. Carol had a book editing project so we drove half a day and worked half a day on most days. We stayed at a Walmart near St. Louis one night, and KOA campgrounds two nights. We dodged a nasty bullet at the KOA in WaKeeney, Kansas--we had been driving through a rainstorm for a couple of hours, and started seeing ice piled up on the roads, a snow plow on the interstate, disabled vehicles, and flashing lights as we approached our exit to the KOA. It turned out that we had just missed a massive hailstorm over the town of WeKeeney, with hail up to the size of softballs! All those who had been at the campground had major damage to their campers and vehicles--windshields and windows smashed, badly dented vehicles. The flowers and flowerpots at the campground were smashed and shattered. Fortunately no one was injured at the KOA, but at least one person had died on the highway due to the ice on the road. Unnerving! We decided to pay a little more attention to the weather as we're driving from now on.

Hail storm damage to windshield and dents all over body (not noticeable in photo).

One weird thing happened with the Roadtrek during the drive. At one point, the engine light came on (steady, not flashing, so not supposed to be an emergency). This had happened before so we weren't that worried about it. But then the vehicle started misfiring badly, losing power and jerking all the time. Carol was driving and managed to limp 9 miles to the next exit, where, magically (thank you, Lord) was a NAPA auto care and parts place. We got a manager to look at the engine and he immediately spotted a cable laying on the the manifold and thought it looked like it was arcing. He said the clamp probably was broken by the last person who worked on it and the cable started flopping around and landed there, where it could arc and would cause the symptoms we were having. He clamped the cable up where it's supposed to be using some zip ties and we test drove it--fixed the problem! Yay! He cleared the engine light issue--not sure if it was even related. (And we later purchased one of the engine code readers so we can interpret the problem if it happens again.)

Our next destination is the home of our good friend Kelly and her husband Todd, who live in Lakewood, Colorado, a suburb of Denver.

Back to Crane Creek

 Around the turn of this century, my fishing buddy Bud Hennessy and I tried to fish one of Trout Unlimited's Top 100 Trout Streams in America called Crane Creek, located in the southwestern part of Missouri near Branson. I say "tried" to fish the creek because we had great difficulty finding it. It was an intriguing stream because it is claimed to have an original strain of McCloud River rainbow trout, stocked there in the late 1800s and now wild, that are known for their fighting and jumping skills. To give you an idea of just how hard McCloud River trout can fight, one day Bud and I fished the actual McCloud River in upstate California. I came across a very deep hole and decided to climb up on a rock so I could better fish this hole. I had on a tiny, size 18, dry fly and cast it onto the surface of the hole. Before I could blink, a sizable rainbow came roaring out of the deep, took the fly and dove out of sight. When I finally got around to setting the hook, the rainbow came roaring back out of the water and jumped as high as the level of my eye while I was standing on the rock. I managed to bring that trout close enough to me so I could gently release him back into the water.

So with visions of catching such a trout in Crane Creek, Bud and I searched and searched for the stream. Finally we found what we thought was Crane Creek, only to find that it was about 2 to 3 feet wide and ankle deep. How could this stream possibly have made it into Trout Unlimited's Top 100? we wondered. While Bud went off to look elsewhere for Crane Creek, I decided to follow the tiny stream of water downstream in hopes that I was just on a small tributary of the real Crane Creek. About a half mile down, the tiny stream opened up into one crystal clear hole of water maybe 20 feet in diameter and maybe 2 to 3 feet deep. In the hole lay many large trout. I knew I would scare all these fish if I tried to get close enough to cast into the hole. Fortunately, there was a large tree overhanging the hole so I climbed up the tree and tried and tried, unsuccessfully I might add, to drop a fly into the pool. I must have spent at least 45 minutes trying to catch a trout with no luck. Frustrated, I walked back, found Bud, and asked how his search for the "real stream" had gone. Bud exclaimed that all he saw were rattlesnakes and he had soon given up the search! I never caught a trout, or any fish, in "Crane Creek" so I was not able to check it off my list. Later I wrote a short review of the Creek in my Top 100 book. I gave it a review of 0 out of 5 stars.

At Carol's insistence, I researched this stream while on this trip and found a number of recent videos of fishermen catching rainbows there. It's a spring creek, with very clear water, and a reputation for large trout that are very difficult to catch. I found the exact location on Google Maps and since the stream was just 20 miles or so off our planned route back home, we decided to detour so I could try again to fish Crane Creek and check it off my bucket list.

As we turned into the parking area where I positively knew the trout stream was supposed to be located, we noticed a dog lying in the leaves. Instinctively, we both knew the dog had been abandoned by a previous owner. It had the look of a pitbull, but was very friendly. Carol and the dog immediately bonded. I walked down expecting to see Crane Creek, but found only a dry creek bed.

This is Crane Creek?

While we were sizing up the nonexistent creek, the dog, and the regulation signs, a Missouri Conservation ranger drove up and asked us if we needed help. "Yes," I said, "Where is Crane Creek?" The ranger explained that, due to the geology, this creek can run underground when the water is low. "But if you walk upstream about half a mile or so you will find it running above ground again." Carol explained to the ranger that the dog had apparently been abandoned there and appeared to be a very nice, well-mannered dog. The ranger promised he would come back later--he had to "run some errands"--and if the dog was still there, he would take care of it.

This sign marked the first access parking lot for the Crane Creek Conservancy.

This sign explained that this creek was a catch and release only stream.

So Carol and I walked upstream, with the dog following us, trying to find the stream. After what we thought was half a mile, we found no water and stopped. The ranger had told us there was another spot further upstream we could drive to, where he knew the stream was currently above water. So we drove to that spot and came across a man on an ATV dressed in orange hunting clothes (there were numerous hunters out and about). While I walked the stream looking for trout, Carol talked to the hunter, who said he was also a catch-and-release fisherman and would take us back to the first place we stopped and show us where all the trout were hanging out. He promised Jack would be able to catch one there. He said he had recently caught a 20-inch trout from that hole!

Andy, the kind hunter/fisherman that showed us where the trout (and the water!) were.

Sure enough, we had not walked far enough upstream. While I rigged my rod, Carol, the hunter/fisherman, named Andy, and the dog walked upstream and found where the water started flowing above ground again. He showed Carol all the trout lying in a big hole. I met them on the way back and Carol snapped a picture of the two of us.

Carol, the dog, and I walked to the stream where I could see a bunch of trout lying and feeding on the surface. This time it was easy to find a place where the trout could not see me. I tied on a small caddis fly and cast it gently onto the surface. Immediately a small trout took the fly but got off. Another cast got a trout to look at the fly, but he refused. On the third cast I caught a 9-inch hard-fighting rainbow and released him. He stirred up the fish in the pool so I waited about 15 minutes before trying again. The friendly dog came down, drank water and sat beside me.

At the tail of the trout pool. I'm sitting down so the trout can't see me.

The dog lay down beside me.

First fish!

About to be released.

It was a pleasant sunny day and a light wind rippled the water making it hard for the trout to see my 7x leader. I got another 8- to 9-inch trout and then called it a day. Now I can check off Crane Creek!

Before we left, Carol fed and petted the dog. He was a very nice, intelligent dog and we both felt sorry to leave him there. We toured and had a late lunch in the quaint little town of Crane. Carol called around trying to get someone with the authority to take the dog to a shelter. Apparently there's no animal shelter or even a dogcatcher in this county. The Missouri Conservation ranger said that "people abandon dogs here all the time" and "usually someone will adopt them." Carol shed a few tears over this dog--finally a ranger returned her call and said various people had been feeding him and one older man was probably going to adopt him, so she felt a little better. [Carol: I was thinking about turning around and going back 300 miles to get him. Still thinking about him. Nice dog.]

We spent Thanksgiving Day with Jack's sister Hazel in PA, at the nursing home where she's living now. The lunch was delicious (traditional!) and we had a good visit with her. Now we have one more fishing adventure ahead, in Maryland, before returning home to Virginia.

Hazel and Carol at our Thanksgiving Dinner