Birding Big Bend

April 25, 2013

A good night’s sleep on the banks of the Rio Grande River, awakened at first light by bird song. We dressed and went out for a birdwatching walk before breakfast. A variety of birds were singing and flying around in the many trees in the campground and we spotted several different brands of warblers, more vermilion flycatchers, doves, mockingbirds, roadrunners and others. We hiked out on the nearby nature trail and stationed ourselves on the rocky hillside, where we could look down onto water and trees. We saw a yellow-breasted chat, cardinals, and summer tanager, in addition to many turtles in the water... and lots of buzzards, which appears to be the most common bird in the park

We had breakfast tacos and packed up the van to head for higher ground. Today we’re moving up to the Chisos Basin, a mountainous “island” in the midst of this dry, dry desert. The highest peak in this range is almost 8000 feet, and the area supports large trees and different wildlife than where we are now...including what’s purported to be the southernmost stand of quaking aspen trees. According to the park literature, this higher ecosystem dates back to the last ice age. As the surrounding terrain got dryer and eventually turned into desert, over millennia, the plant and animal life climbed to higher and higher elevations where the temperatures were lower and more rain fell, until they were isolated in this basin surrounded by craggy volcanic peaks. Should be interesting to see this geologic anomaly.

Before we leave the Rio Grande, we take a turnoff to check out Boquillos Canyon, one of several spectacular canyons that the Rio Grande passes through. We can only see the canyon entrance from the overlook, but it appears to be a significant canyon all right. 

 

The Mexican village is on the far left background.

Maybe we should take a raft trip through one of these canyons while we’re here... This overlook is near an official border crossing into Mexico. The small crossing was closed after 9/11 and has recently reopened. I’m sure the closing economically hurt the tiny Mexican village that’s just over the river. At the overlook, we see a small display of handmade crafts placed there by Mexicans: little scorpions and roadrunners made from braided wire and beads, and walking sticks of local cactus wood. There’s a hand-lettered cardboard sign telling the prices and a little can to put money in—the honor system, as no one is around to monitor it. These Mexicans could cross this shallow river at any point unobserved and enter the U.S., and I’m sure they do just that to set up this little sales display. This is a porous border, folks.

Now we head on up the road to Chisos Basin. The scenery has been fabulous ever since we got to the park, but now it becomes even more spectacular, with wind- and water-carved rock monoliths and sculptures, large trees and lots more greenery. 

 

Looks like a giant prehistoric Triceratops to Jack.

The last few miles to the top are winding with hairpin turns...but we’re used to that back home! It’s hard to believe this place is real; it looks like another world up here. The “basin” is surrounded by tall craggy volcanic peaks, with one hole through the rock wall surrounding us, which is called the Window. All the water in this basin eventually drains into a creek, which pours over the edge through the Window.

Note the slot in the mountains on the far left. They call it a "Window": Jack calls it a spillway. All rainwater in this large basin exits through this Window.

 We stake out a campsite at the campground—again we’ll be without plug-ins, but no worries. We got along fine last night without plug-in electricity. Even watched a movie on Jack’s laptop. And it will be cooler at this elevation so we won’t need to run the fan much if at all.

We head over to the visitor center to pick up some literature and birding info. A fancy lodge is up here too, with a restaurant, and we go there for a late lunch and to use their wifi to get email. The view is awesome through their big windows. 

 

View of one of the mountain peaks from the lodge dining room.

We even do some birdwatching while eating lunch. A Say’s Phoebe has made a nest on the beam at the top of one huge window and it is feeding its babies.

We hike down the Window Overlook trail and get some photos, but don’t see many birds. I think they’re napping now. 

Carol with Casa Grande mountain towering above.

We decide to go back to the campsite and walk around there, as it’s supposed to be a good place to see birds as well. We do spot a Mexican jay there, but nothing else except a mockingbird singing its entire repertoire. Maybe birding will be better in the morning.

Now we’re in the van, wind’s picking up and it’s cooling down quickly since the sun went down. Time for a movie...

Our bird list (birds positively identified) so far:

Vermilion flycatcher, turkey vulture, Bell’s vireo, golden-fronted woodpecker, Say’s phoebe, northern cardinal, raven, greater roadrunner, house finch, northern rough-winged swallow, summer tanager, prothonotary warbler, yellow-breasted chat, yellow-rumped warbler, northern mockingbird, mourning dove, cliff swallow, Mexican jay

State count: 8 [Virginia, North Carolina, South Carolina, Georgia, Tennessee, Arkansas, Oklahoma, Texas]

Odometer:

Surber, VA: 107,435

Chisos Basin, Big Bend National Park, TX: 110,705

Accommodations avg cost per night: 21 nights, avg $14.76 

Where we are: